For several days now I have been meaning to visit the Brihanmumbai (Greater Mumbai) Municipal Corporation (BMC) building, just to have a look inside and also check for the outside chance that they give tours, or have any written materials describing their operations.  Its one of the most architecturally memorable, victorian-era buildings in Mumbai, so although Rameez the Researcher knew this fact-finding exercise was probably a waste of time, Rameez the Tourist really wanted to see inside the place.

I explained to one of the security guards at the gate that I am not from Mumbai, and want to take a tour of the building.  But I didn't know how to say "tour" in Hindi and he ended up with the impression that I wanted to draw the place.  He skeptically consulted with his colleague about this possibility, but I overheard them using the word "drawing," so I interrupted and clarified.  Even once they understood what I wanted, they still weren't sure what to do with me.  I was a little surprised they don't get these requests more often... there are tons of Western tourists in Bombay.

One of the guards asked where I was from, and I replied the United States.  He was very surprised that I had come from that far.  And even more surprised that I spoke Hindi.  (I actually get this reaction a lot).  He asked how that was possible, and I explained that I grew up speaking it at home with my family.  After he learned these few details, he seemed kind of impressed, and decided that he should do his best to show me around.  So he signed me in, took me inside, and had me read some engraved signs.  One of them was a directory, and one of them was a cornerstone dedication.  Then he took me upstairs to the commissioner's office.  The commissioner is the administrative head of the BMC-- there is also a mayor who heads the political (electoral) division.  The guard introduced me to a man behind a desk in the commissioner's office and asked him to explain things to me.  He was also very nice, and invited me to sit at his desk while he gave me a 5 minute overview of how the BMC is set up.  

And then he told me I could wander around the building if I wanted, so I did that.  I wasn't allowed to take pictures.  It was a depressing building.  Very grand and stately, with marble staircases, a huge, decorated dome ceiling, arches that separated the corridors on the perimeter from the courtyard area inside... but it was also in ruins, or at least, on its way to ruins.  The stone was crumbling.  There was netting in the arches to keep pigeons out, but I think there must have been many holes, because the walls on the inside, high above, were stained with bird droppings.  It looked as if the corners and windows had decades worth of dust. 

I would have expected the building that housed the mayor's and commissioner's offices to be better maintained.  On the other hand, the office I sat in, and others that had their doors open, were perfectly nice, just like any other modern offices.  That's what counts, I guess, for running a city.

Anyhow, it was an interesting trip, but I didn't really learn anything new.  I have to seriously search for a way to compile a list of BMC regulations related to ration cards, identity documents or migrants.  Its proving to be kind of difficult.  That was one of my missions last week too, but I haven't made much headway yet...