search
recent updates

Entries by Rameez (78)

Saturday
Jun142008

change of schedule

I am looking forward to getting back into fieldwork after the past week of extreme relaxation.  But it was nice to get to take a break.  Bombay is definitely a city that takes a lot out of you, and although I've only been here about 2 months, I already needed a rest!

Before I left for Kerala, I got a taste of what it feels like to navigate this city during the monsoon.  Its a bit more difficult.  Which is one reason I am quite happy with my change of schedule.

Because of the new Fulbright IIE research grant (which I found out last week that I received), I am cutting my current trip to India short-- I will be back in the US by mid-July.  Before I return, I want to get a feel for Calcutta, so I will be there for 2-3 weeks, starting June 24.  Once I return to the US, I'll write up my current research, apply for a research visa (which is quite a long process) and plan to return on the Fulbright for about six more months.  Not sure exactly when, but sometime early next year, I hope.  During the dry season :)

On one hand, its a great opportunity to refine/ expand my research, and especially to get a chance to step back and analyze things and figure out exactly what gaps I need to fill through my interviews and fact-finding.  On the other hand... I will take _even longer_ to finish my dissertation.  <sigh>

Thank you all very much for the congratulations, nice words and the birthday wishes!  I appreciate it :) 

Friday
Jun132008

bugs

Well.  I am back in Bombay from the tropical paradise of Kerala.  It was a great trip.  The highlights:  getting to see the Kerala backwaters and rural lifestyle from our houseboat.  We were amazed by how people live and farm on these impossibly thin strips of land-- sometimes only about 4 or 5 meters wide-- with the river on one side and flooded rice paddies on the other. 

And truly incredible was our 2 night stay in a beautiful little cottage on Philipkutty's Farm, in Kumarakom.  It is a mini-resort run by a very gentle and sophisticated family.  They treat their customers like guests in their home, offering three elaborate and lovely meals a day of Kerala dishes.  The cooks-- the mother and daughter-in-law of the family-- have been featured in magazines like Gourmet and Food and Wine, and we got to eat their acclaimed dishes for 2 days straight.  And in between meals, we learned about the farm and surrounding village, and relaxed a lot.   Tristan did a lot of writing, and I added to my bug photography portfolio:

 red%20ant.jpg

dragonfly.jpg

slug.jpg

Non-bug pictures to come.

 

Friday
Jun132008

customer service differences

Both of us had kind of a negative reaction to our service experiences on the houseboat, which is a little silly considering we had a staff of four and basically had all our needs taken care of.  First the good things:  our guide gave us all the explanations we wanted, brought us water, fruit and tea regularly, and served our food to us on banana leaf plates.  We had asked to see some farming, so he arranged a walk through a rice paddy and told us about how rice is farmed, and about agriculture in Kerala more generally.  The cook prepared three fresh, very good meals a day of local cuisine.  And yet, we felt that we could have done without much of that pampering, in exchange for a different kind of customer service.  I think the missing element was candor or directness.

Broadly, we have both found-- me even more so through the time I've spent in Bombay so far-- that Indians are often reluctant to say no.  In the United States, if you ask for a service, you are either told it is possible and given the details, and then you expect the promise to be fulfilled... or else you're told that it is not possible.  Here, people more often say yes to things, almost, it seems to me, without considering the reality of the situation sometimes.  It is one of those things that happens so many times in small ways-- and with all sorts of people-- that it is difficult to recount specific instances after a while.   

Still, one that stands out lately is our attempt to arrange transportation to our next destination, after the houseboat.  Our guide told us it would be a snap to catch a rickshaw, then a taxi, from the point where we disembarked.  Leave the details to me, he said.  But when we got there, there were no rickshaws or cabs anywhere, and we found that our guide hadn't yet attempted to arrange the transportation.  So we waited for about half an hour, with very little communication as to when transportation may or may not arrive.  It didn't actually turn out to be inconvenient, but we were perplexed that the guide had so confidently told us he would pre-arrange everything when he didn't seem to have any intention of doing so. 

To top it off, he asked to share our cab, repeatedly saying that his destination was on the way.  We were fine with, but the driver ended up taking a significant detour, and the guide didn't offer to share the cost.  We could tell that he considered all this quite normal... after all, he had just spent two days looking after us on the houseboat.  I think if we had complained, he might have been surprised and maybe would have considered us spoiled.  And maybe we are spoiled in a way.  Although we don't require or even appreciate servitude that much, we do get out of sorts when things aren't communicated clearly or don't happen according to plan.  I'd rather pour my own tea and be fully informed about my travel arrangements.

Another experience on the houseboat that highlighted cultural differences and divergent expectations between ourselves and our crew:  the water tanks on our boat were empty soon after our journey started, we think because the crew had forgotten to fill them.  It wasn't such a big deal, because we were floating down a river with very clean water that could be used for things like flushing and washing hands, and we would be able to stop at a village the next morning and refill the tanks.   And because of this, the crew also didn't treat this as too big of a problem. 

Still, I felt that we had paid a fairly high price for a "deluxe" houseboat with modern facilities, so I let our guide know that while we didn't mind the situation too much, we did want to speak to the tour company about the oversight.  But the guide really didn't like this idea.  First, he asked us if it was possible that we had used a lot of water already that afternoon... for example, had we taken long showers?  It was a disingenuous question because he was well aware that we had spent all of our time sitting on the upper deck.  After that, he informed us, this is a houseboat, not a hotel, and these things happen... so maybe we could just adjust.  That attitude bothered me more than the actual lack of water because of the unwillingness to accept responsibility.  But I'm sure the guide was also a bit taken aback by my apparent inflexibility.

Interestingly, Tristan was less bothered than I was, though you would think I would be more used to this sort of thing.  I was overanalyzing my customer service related feelings, and he was telling me to chill out :)  On the other hand, he was far more bothered by the bugs on the boat than I was.  While we are getting to be more flexible travelers, in different ways, we still have a long way to go on the laid-back scale.

Sunday
Jun082008

kerala

Tristan and I are nearing the end of our second day in Kerala.  In about 15 minutes, we are both scheduled for 45 minute long Ayurvedic massages at our hotel, the Fort House.  We are staying here for two nights.  Its a really lovely place, right on the waterside and adorned with tropical gardens and funny terra cotta sculptures.  Its off season, and we think we may be the only people staying here.  The staff are very attentive.  Yesterday, when we got here, we had private lunch of authentic Kerala cuisine (spicy shrimp curry and nutty biryani) on some tables facing the sea. 

fort%20house%20hotel.jpg 


And then one of the staff members sent us off to see a Kathakali performace.  The word means "story dance" and its a type of dance that is native to Kerala.  Its characterized by very specific and elaborate hand positions and facial expressions to signify different actions and emotions, and the performers use them to enact stories from the Mahabharata.  We got there about an hour before the performance and watched the dancers put on their makeup.
kathakali%20makeup.jpg

Today we planned to spend the day walking around Fort Cochin.  Its a very small district of the much larger city of Cochin (population about 1.6 million), and as our tour book suggested, we were just going to walk around and take in the colonial Portugese architecture and profusion of antique stores.  But we had been out for about 20 minutes when a rickshaw driver asked us to hire him for a three hour tour of town.  We agreed, and it was really great.  We saw lots of things that we otherwise might have been a little shy to go observe up close.  Like we hung out at the fish market close to the waters edge and watched as someone auctioned off his catch. 

The rickshaw guy had a really good sense of humor, and told us a lot about Cochin.  He also showed us places that he was personally fond of.. like the church where he got married and where his daughter was baptized (in a large, pink lotus-shaped basin).  He spoke English really well, and was very proud that Kerala has a literacy rate of about 95%.  Its a very educated and fairly developed place, although also quite poor.   That, as I know through studying migration, is due to the very high remittances that migrants from Kerala send back home from abroad.

Ok, off to get a massage.  Tomorrow we begin our two days on a houseboat, cruising the Kerala backwaters :)

Friday
Jun062008

just met the rationing controller

I sat in on kind of a high level meeting today.  It was between the Rationing Controller of Mumbai and three members of a big and pretty influential NGO called the Rationing Kruti Samiti.  RKS is a coordinating organization for groups that are trying to reform Maharashtra's Public Distriburtion and rationing system.  Since raiton cards are indispensable proofs of identity in this state, the RKS is also deeply involved in issues related to proof of identity and citizenship.

So I basically got to observe some leaders of this organization talk about their concerns to the head of the rationing system in Mumbai.  The controller, Mr. Kerure, was very pleasant and responsive to them.  He was extremely surprised when he heard that the going rate for bribes in the Govandi area has become Rs. 7000.  He shook his head over that for several seconds.  And in general, he was ready to recognize that the process of getting a ration card is too difficult for people in the unorganized sector.  He asked the RKS members for their suggestions, and encouraged them to write him a report detailing the problems they see and both long-term and short-term strategies for addressing them.

One thing he kept mentioning that I didn't really understand was about trying to put the application process for the ration cards online, so people don't have to physically go to offices and interact with officials who require bribes to get work done.  It makes sense, of course, but to me it sounded really out of touch.  The vast majority of the people who I have been meeting and interviewing about their identity proof issues would not be able to use a computer to submit such an application.  So they would
still need an intermediary. 

I would also like to know about where this official fits in on the system of bribes.  Everybody who has talked to me about this issue has emphasized that the chain of bribery goes all the way to the top levels... which means that even the rationing controller would take part in it.  But the person I met today seemed pretty earnest in his desire to help reform the system.  As I get to know the RKS people better, I'll ask about their opinions on these things.

The meeting was conducted mostly in Marathi and English.  I have been making efforts to learn a bit of Marathi, and I was able to follow quite a bit, but it was a struggle.  I have recorded the whole thing so I can get someone to help me catch the details later on.  For my future research, dealing with government officials in Maharashtra is definitely going to require more Marathi skills... despite the diversity of Bombay and the fact that about 40% of the population is Maharashtran, almost all the government officials and workers are Maharashtran, and they strongly prefer to speak only in Marathi. 

I had a short introduction with the controller, and he was happy to see I was interested in the rationing issue, and also that I spoke Hindi despite being American.  He is not yet aware that my angle on the topic is related to migrant issues... but I hope he will be wiling to let me interview him in the future.