first train ride

 

I started to get a bit familiar with the Bombay rail.  It was pretty fun, and not too bad to figure out.  I would have had a rough time of it if I didn't speak Hindi though- the signs weren't obvious and I got a lot of directions from people.  The trains are fairly well maintained, they seem to run reliably, and I saw all sorts of people using them... professionals, students, day laborers.  A second class ticket is only 6 rupees.  I found the ride in the women's compartment to be just fine... definitely something I can do every day, though its really crowded and a little stressful during rush hour.  When we got back, the elders at home were somewhat aghast that I had gone off on the train on my own.  I was asked not to do so again and take it slower... but I don't think they really mean it.  They'll have more peace of mind once I have a mobile.  (Strangely, by brain already says "mobile" instead of "cell phone." )

So I took the train to Bandra and chatted with a fruit vendor.  He said about 40 percent of the produce vendors in that little area were from UP, and about 50 from other places in Maharashtra or from Bombay.  I forgot to ask about the other 10.  He said the guys from UP went home to their villages 5 or 6 times a year.  We had a very casual exchange and he seemed to have no problem with my questions.  It was almost like he was kind of surprised to be interested in his own replies.  Anyway, I just started talking to him because I had been keeping to myself on the streets all that time and psyching myself out about interviewing people... so I needed to convince myself that it was no big deal and they would be approachable.  Luckily, I happened upon a nice guy.  A neighboring fruit vendor held up two of his mangoes and posed for a picture.  I bought some Kabuli pomegranates, which have sweeter and juicier seeds than the regular kind. 

When I got home, Dadi, Mami and Rashida Aunty were about to leave to visit the Rosat-ut-Tahera, so I went along.  Rosat-ut-Tahera is the name of the mausoleum that was built for Sayedna Taher Saifuddin, the current Sayedna's father.  I was really really surprised by its splendor.  First of all, its in the middle of Bhindi Bazaar, with busy, dense and dirty alleys of stalls and shops of all kinds.  We drove through some streets that I would have mistaken for large sidewalks if our car hadn't turned on them (in the process, gently bumped a motorcyclist; no one on either end of the collision was remotely fazed by it, expect me).  So in the middle of all this dirt and chaos, we came to this huge elegant structure of white marble.  It has an inner courtyard with a garden, and marble walkways that led to the actual tomb.  The tombstone is in a large room, also white marble, with the entire Quran inscribed on the walls in GOLD.  And surah-e-fateha and every single bismillah was diamond, ruby or emerald encrusted.  Just a totally stunning display of wealth.  Its right next to Fatimi masjid, which has a modest minaret.  Mami (who I find to be really funny) told me that Muslims in the areas right around there constructed a taller more ornate minaret just to show up the Fatimi masjid one.  After everyone paid their respects we headed home. 

We had some interesting conversations in the car ride.  We were driving through and around some processions because of a minor Muslim holiday and Mami and Rashida Aunty explained about Muslims vs. Bohras in Bombay.  There just seems to be absolutely no social overlap between them; and in many ways the two seem to be very different religions, although the core is certainly the same.  From various comments so far, I gather that some bohras tend to think of other Muslims in Bombay-- at least the poorer ones--  as somewhat fanatical and mob-like.  Rashida Aunty was lamenting over the Sunni-Shia tension in the city, but she was surprised when I asked if any of that involved Bohras.  Its interesting that the Bohras seem to be fairly economically successful but not political at all... or at least, the community is just not embroiled in normal Hindu-Muslim and Muslim-Muslim tensions.  (From Durriya ben in the U.S., i know that there is a lot of lobbying and official government work that goes on at the upper levels).  It also seems like although bohras aren't involved in the communal politics that India is famous for, many individuals are pretty politically engaged over some of those same issues... for example, Rashida Aunty said that people she knows without exception vote for Congress because the Hindu nationalism issue is a big deal for them.  And in general, her family seems tuned in to politics, though I guess I would have to ask more specific questions to find out if that impression is correct, and how much of their political views have anything to do with religion.  She is definitely proud of India's cosmopolitan, multi-religious nature.