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Entries in dawoodi bohras (4)

Monday
Sep082008

article about Muslim women in America

I followed some Washington Post links and ended up at this blog post about dating among Muslims in America.  It discusses some issues raised by the fact that, on the one hand, dating is discouraged in Islam, and on the other, there is a demographic reality of single Muslim women in America for whom, for a variety of reasons, the traditional paths of meeting their partner aren't necessarily successful or desirable.

I found the subject matter itself interesting, but I also liked the article because it was a vivid and non-stereotypical snapshot of conservative Muslim values and experiences in the US.  That is a topic I don't have much first hand experience with, I think because Bohras are more liberal than other Muslims in many ways.  For example, most of my married and engaged bohra friends and relatives had an opportunity to date their intended before making a commitment.  I forget that experience is unsual among many Muslims, even in the US.

I liked the rest of the blog too.  Her latest post links to an excellent opinion piece by Tariq Ali about Asif Ali Zaradari's unfortunate ascendance to the Pakistani presidency.

Monday
Apr212008

bohras and politics

Rashida Aunty talked a bit more about bohras and political involvement.  She said Bohras vote for Congress because the BJP (which they pronounce as Bhaajap in Gujarati) wants India to be only a Hindu country, just as Pakistan is a Muslim one.  Congress, on the other hand, advocates equally for all religions.  She said that while Shiv Sena (a Hindu nationalist party in the state of Maharashtra; wants to keep outsiders ouf of the state) is ostensibly a different party than the BJP, everyone knows it is closely allied with them, and recognizes that the only reason BJP leaders don't outwardly support the Sena is that it would be bad for their public image.  She was explaining all this to me, and its all stuff I have read and know about, but it was good to hear the same kinds of views from a regular person, and not just an editorial page or academic article.  She also talked at length about the Sena's Marathi only campaign... now, the younger children all learn Marathi in school because its compulsory and government applications and documents are only written in Marathi and English, despite the vast presence of Hindi and even Gujarati in Bombay.  Interestingly, while she vehemently disagrees with the Sena's Marathi-only push, she sympathizes with their stance against migrants because the city is so overcrowded.

As far as Bohras go, she said Sayedna (TUS) goes out of his way to keep neutral in politics and to have good relations with all political leaders, regardless of party.  Once, during a broadcast of a vaaz (sermon) out of Ahmadabad, after it was over but the camera was still recording, the audience heard Sayedna ask someone close to him if a car had arrived.  It turned out to be Gujarat Chief Minister Modi's car, and she explained that while neither Sayedna nor Modi were visible to them, they all heard a very cordial and respectful exchange between them.  She said Modi was extremely reverent.  (Modi is a BJP leader, very Hindu nationalist).

Bohras, she said, don't get involved in Hindu- Muslim politics, and as a result, no one really bothers them when religious tensions materialize.  I asked how they can remain uninvolved, considering they're Muslim, and she replied that the Muslim masses (her term, not mine) in Bombay are very politicized, and in her opinion, do things to provoke conflict.  For example, young men tear down Shiv Sena posters that have Bal Thackeray's face on them.  So when they take such actions, she said, of course they provoke the Sena further.  (On the other hand though, the Shiv Sena message is so chauvinistic, that maybe you can't really blame those men for tearing down posters).  

Then she told me about the time of the destruction of the Babri Mosque in Aydodhya (1992- 1993)... there was violence all over India, including Bombay.  She said that they didn't leave the house at all because there was so much rioting on the streets.  At that time, she and her family lived in a heavily Shiv Sena dominated area, and they all temporarily left to go stay with a relative in a part of the city that was safer for them.  But her father was the head of a mosque in that area and he refused to leave his responsibility.  He didn't want to leave an empty mosque at the hands of people who would destroy it.   He was basically the only Muslim there.  She said, however, that the bohras had enough of a reputation for being unpoliticized that the Sena didn't disturb him or the mosque at all.  They dealt with each respectfully, and even cooperated on a couple of things, like water access from a particular hose inside the mosque.  Her point was that bohras stay out of politics, and don't face the same anti-Muslim backlash as a result.  When I asked about voting, she said that everyone definitely votes, and they vote for Congress.  But when there's a contentious election on the horizon in Bombay, Sayedna (TUS) tends to leave town to stay totally out of the fray.

Saturday
Apr192008

Deedar and a movie

I intended to wake up really early, but I slept until almost 9.  And then I had to rush to get ready to go do deedar.  This means, very simply, to see Sayedna (TUS).  For Bohras, it is a spiritual experience and the family really wanted me to get a chance to experience it.  Sayedna arrived in Bombay today from Ahmadabad and I went with Shabbir Uncle, Rashida Aunty and Maimoona to go stand along his route and catch a glimpse.  Traffic was terrible (I guess because the lines of bohras on the streets were changing traffic patterns) and Maimoona was constantly on the phone or texting, getting up-to-date information on exactly where he was and on the spots where it was least crowded.  She kept telling her Dad to go one way, and he kept going another, which was too bad because she seemed very well informed.  But in the end, we got a prime location and everyone was satisfied. 

I did a bit of reading in the middle of the day, and in the evening, Maimoona took me out to a movie with several of her friends.  We saw You, Me Aur Hum, and it was pretty good, though very high on the cheesiness scale.  Several amusing/ interesting things stand out.  So Maimoona and I left the flat and met her friend Tasneem on the corner.  Tasneem hopped in our cab, we had our introductions, and then she and Maimoona launched into a hilarious gossip session.  Two other girls (Tasneem #2 and #3) joined us later on and two of their guy friends were also along.  The girls kept up a continuous banter and giggle until about 2 minutes into the movie, and the boys kept telling them to behave like civilized people.  There was a lot of seat switching for the fun of it.  They were a nice bunch, really friendly and lively.  The movie itself was a touching if somewhat implausible story.  [Spoiler Alert] The heroine, who is young and beautiful, is diagnosed with alzheimer's and its about her husband's struggle taking care of her.  The moral of the story was something like love conquers all.  All four girls had the water works turned on by the end, with the boys handing over their handkerchiefs.  One of the Tasneems joked that hers was already wet when it was handed to her and Yousuf (the gentleman who offered it) had to defend himself from charges of sentimentality.  In any case, I can attest to the fact that I did not cry.  Cheese and tears don't mix :)

Also, the theater, next to Victoria Terminal, was amazing.  Actually cleaner and more comfortable than U.S. theaters.  Good thing too, because the movie was over three hours long!!!  Here's a picture of me and the girls...

p1010114.jpg 

Friday
Apr182008

introduction

As the first entry on this journal, I think I should provide some introduction to my current situation.

My grandmother (Dadi) and I came to Bombay, me for research on my dissertation and Dadi to see her brother, Mamajee Yousuf and the rest of her family.  I'll be in Bombay until July, and then will go to Calcutta for 2 months.  Dadi will be here through the end of May.

We are staying in an empty flat that is adjacent to Rashida Aunty and Shabbir Uncle's... literally right across the hall. The door in between stays open and its like its the same place.  Rashida Aunty is Mamajee Yousuf's eldest daughter.  Her daughter, Maimoona, is also there.  And although they are traveling at the moment, her son, daughter-in-law and their small daughter also live there.  And Mamajee Yousuf and Mami have also moved to the empty flat for the duration of my grandmother's visit, so they can be close to her.  Its a full and lively house!

This is the first time I've met most people in this household.  They're all very welcoming.  Rashida Aunty is really friendly, straightforward and easy to talk to, and I feel really comfortable with her.  Her daughter, Maimoona, is 18 and also extremely friendly and helpful.  And really hilarious.  She's very outgoing and has taken me under her wing, which I'm really happy about :)

My first day, she took me shopping and showed me around South Mumbai a bit.  She's also taken charge of getting me a sim card for my phone.

I think my first few days here, at least, will have a lot of bohra-related activity, so I'll take a second to explain that so future posts make sense.  The Dawoodi Bohras are a small sect of Shia Islam; Sayedna Mohammad Burhannudin (TUS) is the community's spiritual leader.  He is based in Bombay.  My grandmother's family, including the people who are hosting us, have a long history of service to Sayedna.