Deedar and a movie

I intended to wake up really early, but I slept until almost 9.  And then I had to rush to get ready to go do deedar.  This means, very simply, to see Sayedna (TUS).  For Bohras, it is a spiritual experience and the family really wanted me to get a chance to experience it.  Sayedna arrived in Bombay today from Ahmadabad and I went with Shabbir Uncle, Rashida Aunty and Maimoona to go stand along his route and catch a glimpse.  Traffic was terrible (I guess because the lines of bohras on the streets were changing traffic patterns) and Maimoona was constantly on the phone or texting, getting up-to-date information on exactly where he was and on the spots where it was least crowded.  She kept telling her Dad to go one way, and he kept going another, which was too bad because she seemed very well informed.  But in the end, we got a prime location and everyone was satisfied. 

I did a bit of reading in the middle of the day, and in the evening, Maimoona took me out to a movie with several of her friends.  We saw You, Me Aur Hum, and it was pretty good, though very high on the cheesiness scale.  Several amusing/ interesting things stand out.  So Maimoona and I left the flat and met her friend Tasneem on the corner.  Tasneem hopped in our cab, we had our introductions, and then she and Maimoona launched into a hilarious gossip session.  Two other girls (Tasneem #2 and #3) joined us later on and two of their guy friends were also along.  The girls kept up a continuous banter and giggle until about 2 minutes into the movie, and the boys kept telling them to behave like civilized people.  There was a lot of seat switching for the fun of it.  They were a nice bunch, really friendly and lively.  The movie itself was a touching if somewhat implausible story.  [Spoiler Alert] The heroine, who is young and beautiful, is diagnosed with alzheimer's and its about her husband's struggle taking care of her.  The moral of the story was something like love conquers all.  All four girls had the water works turned on by the end, with the boys handing over their handkerchiefs.  One of the Tasneems joked that hers was already wet when it was handed to her and Yousuf (the gentleman who offered it) had to defend himself from charges of sentimentality.  In any case, I can attest to the fact that I did not cry.  Cheese and tears don't mix :)

Also, the theater, next to Victoria Terminal, was amazing.  Actually cleaner and more comfortable than U.S. theaters.  Good thing too, because the movie was over three hours long!!!  Here's a picture of me and the girls...

 

first train ride

 

I started to get a bit familiar with the Bombay rail.  It was pretty fun, and not too bad to figure out.  I would have had a rough time of it if I didn't speak Hindi though- the signs weren't obvious and I got a lot of directions from people.  The trains are fairly well maintained, they seem to run reliably, and I saw all sorts of people using them... professionals, students, day laborers.  A second class ticket is only 6 rupees.  I found the ride in the women's compartment to be just fine... definitely something I can do every day, though its really crowded and a little stressful during rush hour.  When we got back, the elders at home were somewhat aghast that I had gone off on the train on my own.  I was asked not to do so again and take it slower... but I don't think they really mean it.  They'll have more peace of mind once I have a mobile.  (Strangely, by brain already says "mobile" instead of "cell phone." )

So I took the train to Bandra and chatted with a fruit vendor.  He said about 40 percent of the produce vendors in that little area were from UP, and about 50 from other places in Maharashtra or from Bombay.  I forgot to ask about the other 10.  He said the guys from UP went home to their villages 5 or 6 times a year.  We had a very casual exchange and he seemed to have no problem with my questions.  It was almost like he was kind of surprised to be interested in his own replies.  Anyway, I just started talking to him because I had been keeping to myself on the streets all that time and psyching myself out about interviewing people... so I needed to convince myself that it was no big deal and they would be approachable.  Luckily, I happened upon a nice guy.  A neighboring fruit vendor held up two of his mangoes and posed for a picture.  I bought some Kabuli pomegranates, which have sweeter and juicier seeds than the regular kind. 

When I got home, Dadi, Mami and Rashida Aunty were about to leave to visit the Rosat-ut-Tahera, so I went along.  Rosat-ut-Tahera is the name of the mausoleum that was built for Sayedna Taher Saifuddin, the current Sayedna's father.  I was really really surprised by its splendor.  First of all, its in the middle of Bhindi Bazaar, with busy, dense and dirty alleys of stalls and shops of all kinds.  We drove through some streets that I would have mistaken for large sidewalks if our car hadn't turned on them (in the process, gently bumped a motorcyclist; no one on either end of the collision was remotely fazed by it, expect me).  So in the middle of all this dirt and chaos, we came to this huge elegant structure of white marble.  It has an inner courtyard with a garden, and marble walkways that led to the actual tomb.  The tombstone is in a large room, also white marble, with the entire Quran inscribed on the walls in GOLD.  And surah-e-fateha and every single bismillah was diamond, ruby or emerald encrusted.  Just a totally stunning display of wealth.  Its right next to Fatimi masjid, which has a modest minaret.  Mami (who I find to be really funny) told me that Muslims in the areas right around there constructed a taller more ornate minaret just to show up the Fatimi masjid one.  After everyone paid their respects we headed home. 

We had some interesting conversations in the car ride.  We were driving through and around some processions because of a minor Muslim holiday and Mami and Rashida Aunty explained about Muslims vs. Bohras in Bombay.  There just seems to be absolutely no social overlap between them; and in many ways the two seem to be very different religions, although the core is certainly the same.  From various comments so far, I gather that some bohras tend to think of other Muslims in Bombay-- at least the poorer ones--  as somewhat fanatical and mob-like.  Rashida Aunty was lamenting over the Sunni-Shia tension in the city, but she was surprised when I asked if any of that involved Bohras.  Its interesting that the Bohras seem to be fairly economically successful but not political at all... or at least, the community is just not embroiled in normal Hindu-Muslim and Muslim-Muslim tensions.  (From Durriya ben in the U.S., i know that there is a lot of lobbying and official government work that goes on at the upper levels).  It also seems like although bohras aren't involved in the communal politics that India is famous for, many individuals are pretty politically engaged over some of those same issues... for example, Rashida Aunty said that people she knows without exception vote for Congress because the Hindu nationalism issue is a big deal for them.  And in general, her family seems tuned in to politics, though I guess I would have to ask more specific questions to find out if that impression is correct, and how much of their political views have anything to do with religion.  She is definitely proud of India's cosmopolitan, multi-religious nature. 

introduction

As the first entry on this journal, I think I should provide some introduction to my current situation.

My grandmother (Dadi) and I came to Bombay, me for research on my dissertation and Dadi to see her brother, Mamajee Yousuf and the rest of her family.  I'll be in Bombay until July, and then will go to Calcutta for 2 months.  Dadi will be here through the end of May.

We are staying in an empty flat that is adjacent to Rashida Aunty and Shabbir Uncle's... literally right across the hall. The door in between stays open and its like its the same place.  Rashida Aunty is Mamajee Yousuf's eldest daughter.  Her daughter, Maimoona, is also there.  And although they are traveling at the moment, her son, daughter-in-law and their small daughter also live there.  And Mamajee Yousuf and Mami have also moved to the empty flat for the duration of my grandmother's visit, so they can be close to her.  Its a full and lively house!

This is the first time I've met most people in this household.  They're all very welcoming.  Rashida Aunty is really friendly, straightforward and easy to talk to, and I feel really comfortable with her.  Her daughter, Maimoona, is 18 and also extremely friendly and helpful.  And really hilarious.  She's very outgoing and has taken me under her wing, which I'm really happy about :)

My first day, she took me shopping and showed me around South Mumbai a bit.  She's also taken charge of getting me a sim card for my phone.

I think my first few days here, at least, will have a lot of bohra-related activity, so I'll take a second to explain that so future posts make sense.  The Dawoodi Bohras are a small sect of Shia Islam; Sayedna Mohammad Burhannudin (TUS) is the community's spiritual leader.  He is based in Bombay.  My grandmother's family, including the people who are hosting us, have a long history of service to Sayedna.  

Update on Wednesday, April 23, 2008 at 10:34PM by Rameez

An update on my living situation-- thanks to the Doriwala family, I have begun to move into a new flat where I can live on my own, and keep my own schedule and get work done much more easily.

The flat is next to the Masjid Bunder rail station- a really convenient location.  Its located in a busy market, and is a really lovely place.  It belongs to Bakir Uncle and Tasneem Aunty (my sister's future parents-in-law) and actually, the entire buiding is owned by the Doriwalas.  I've met several family members, and everyone is super nice.  Yusuf bhai, Bakir uncle's nephew, got me set up.  Here are some pictures.

I just spent my first night here at this place.  Its really nice to be a bit more independent.  I will be back with Dadi tonight and for the weekend.

Just at the corner, I went to buy some eggs and bread.  I got six eggs, given to me wrapped in a newspaper, 6 rolls, and 2 samosas for about 35 rupees... just under a dollar!  Though it turns out the bread wasn't that good... I guess I should go to a real bakery instead of a cart.  Yesterday I bought a "Deisel" bag and "Citizen" watch for a total of about 7 dollars.  But there are other things... like phone or internet service.... that are about the same price as in the US. 

The stall where I got the watch: